On a cold, windy February afternoon in Vienna, I was walking down my usual neighbourhood street, when I saw a small sign outside my favourite local cafe. I crossed the road to read it and got hit by the horrible news. Daniela's Back-Cafe, my sanctuary, is closing down. I pride myself on not getting attached to things or places. But then again, Daniela's cafe is was so much more than just a cafe for me.
I consider myself lucky to live in Vienna, where there is such a historic cafe culture that the question, "What's your lieblings (favourite) cafe?" is a usual form of small talk. The Viennese cafe culture is part of the UNESCO list of intangible cultural heritage. I love the big cafes with the high ceiling, marble top tables, Thonet chairs, and newspaper holders. But Daniela's cafe was different. It was small, homely, and local. It was started by a woman entrepreneur - Daniela, who was ably supported by Sabine. Daniela's cafe did not have newspaper holders but it had a variety of newspapers that were passed around by the stammkunden (regular customers). Every season, Daniela's cafe would be decorated differently and tastefully. Birthday celebrations for the staff and friends would happen in the cafe itself. Table reservations were not needed. The special guests obviously had their stammtisch (regular's table). But if you did make a reservation, you would see your name written not on plain white paper but in chalk on a tiny blackboard mounted on an even tinier easel.
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| View from my corner table |
I moved to Vienna in November of 2018 as my wife was starting a PhD in Austria and noticed the cafe when our landlord was giving us the grätzl (neighbourhood) tour. Soon, I started going to Daniela's every other day. Often for just a lovely warm cup of coffee while occasionally indulging in a delicious breakfast of bacon and eggs with a butter crossaint on the side. Over time, my customizations of coffee with heiße (hot) milk and breakfast with crossaint instead of the Austrian Kaisersemmel (crusty star-shaped bread roll) became known to both Daniela and Sabine and I could just order kaffee (coffee) or Frühstück (breakfast) and my custom order would be delivered. When I took guests to the cafe, after taking their order, Sabine would confirm with me if I wanted the "usual."
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| The usual coffee |
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| The usual breakfast |
While I went to Daniela's cafe fairly regularly, it was nothing as compared to the real cafe regulars. They went each and every day, mostly at the same time. Just to have a coffee, read multiple newspapers, and chat. Some times they returned tupperware from the earlier day's take-away lunch just like you would with a friend or relative. I miss reading newspapers in Vienna. It was a big part of my life in India, and I've been lucky and privileged to have grown up in a family that reads multiple newspapers every day. Many times at home, we would ask, "Are you done reading Indian Expresss?" Hearing simlar questions and seeing the newspaper exchanges in Vienna was heartwarming for me.
One of the most vivid (and pleasant) memories of the COVID-19 pandemic for me was the day Daniela's cafe opened just for take-away after the first lockdown. I was missing the cafe a lot and obviously went to get my usual coffee (first time in a take-way cup) on the first morning. There, I ran into one of the cafe regulars, and we were both so thrilled to see each other. As the years went by, I started chatting more with the regulars and they became a big part of my life. I used to inform them about my India trips, and they always wished me safe travels and good health. They were fascinated and curious about India and my life there. One time, after a relatively long conversation in my horrible, broken German, I apologized for my German not being good. They sweetly replied, "That's absolutely ok. Even we cannot speak Indian." It is worth mentioning that among the cafe regulars, I was by far the youngest and only non-white patron. But I was never made to feel aware of these differences. I got only warmth and pleasantness in the cafe from everyone. We were also invited for special Christmas and New Year's Eve celebrations. I too made it a point to get some Indian sweets for my cafe friends, which they thoroughly enjoyed every time.
It's only been a month since we came back to Vienna from a 4-week trip back home to India. We went to the cafe and were greeted so warmly by Daniela and Sabine, asking about our health and travels. We had a long conversation with the cafe regulars and exchanged pleasantries with the non-regulars. Normally, coming back to Austria from India in the winter is quite depressing. In India, especially in Pune, December / January is the best time. The weather is pleasant, sunny and it is green despite being winter. There are lots of functions happening, so you're meeting many people constantly. Coming back to Austria in January, where it is freezing cold, grey and the trees are devoid of life, can be quite a disappointing change. But a visit to Daniela's cafe made us feel welcome and 'at home'.
In 2019, the initial 6 - 9 months after moving to Vienna were quite tough. My wife was suffering from anxiety, depression, and home sickness. It was my first time living out of my home, and I was also getting used to a lot of things. But I was lucky that I loved Vienna from the beginning and didn't mind the cold, grey weather. But it was important for me to get my own time to unwind and relax. My visits to Daniela's cafe played a huge role in giving me 30 minutes of relaxation and warmth that gave me support to face the remaining day. And that is why Daniela's Back-Cafe meant so much to me. It was my sanctuary. Farewell!
